Two days in Bondone with the Onderoaders
A spring break in one of Italy’s Most Beautiful Villages
- 3 days
- April, May, June, July, August, September, October
- Trekking and Hiking, Nature and Wellness, Art and Culture
In Trentino, there is a place known as “the town of charcoal burners”: that is because in the early twentieth century its inhabitants once made their living from charcoal obtained using wood from the forests. The trade required them to leave their homes at the start of spring, returning only with the arrival of winter. This story of dedication and sacrifice lives on in the memories of those who live in Bondone, now recognised as one of Italy’s Most Beautiful Villages.
We shared the story with the Onderoaders — an Italian couple, both content creators, who share their experiences travelling in Italy and around the world on their social media channels — who were intrigued enough to visit Trentino in spring to explore the village of Bondone and its surroundings, enjoying a relaxed weekend in the natural setting of the Valle del Chiese Network of Reserves.
Inspired by their trip, we’ve devised a two-day itinerary to recommend to you in spring and summer.
Before you reach the village of Bondone, make the most of the mild weather during these warmer months to stop off in the district of Baitoni, a window onto the valley that overlooks Lake Idro, to which it is joined by a public beach with sports and recreational facilities, the recipient of a Blue Flag in 2023.
After this break, as you head towards the village of Bondone, make sure to pay a visit to San Giovanni Castle, perched on a spur of rock looking down on the lake. The castle, owned for centuries by the powerful Lodron family, boasts a spectacular view of the lake and was also the backdrop to a fascinating moment in history: in 1526, the castle hosted Georg von Frundsberg, the so-called Father of the Landsknechte, for several days in the lead-up to one of his most famous expeditions.
This came when he led his men southwards through the Italian peninsula as far as the city of Rome, which came under ferocious attack in May 1527 in what went down in history as “The Sack of Rome”.
“Thanks to the stunning historic re-enactment by the Lebrac cultural association, we spent an incredible morning immersed in the Middle Ages” (Erica e Nicola)
You’ll want to devote a full afternoon to exploring Bondone. As you stroll through the town, you’re sure to notice a number of frescoes on the walls, particularly the one dedicated to the Madonna seated on a throne and nursing the infant Jesus, which dates back to the 16th century. Another depicts a king offering his wealth to Death in exchange for his life: an offer made in vain. Continuing along the streets of the village, you can visit the church dedicated to the Nativity of Mary who, according to legend, relieved the terrible cholera epidemic that decimated the population of the village in the 19th century.
For the perfect ending to your afternoon, make your way to Piazza della Levata where you can admire the monument to the charcoal burners, a work of art that encapsulates the spirit of the town.
“Perched at an altitude of 720 metres, time has stood still in Bondone: the fascinating story of the charcoal burners will amaze you” (Erica e Nicola)
After a good breakfast, it’s time to enjoy a healthy dose of physical exercise in nature. This excursion will bring you back to the shores of Lake Idro, in the Baitoni district, to explore the Sasse Aided Path. The trail is “aided” in that it is equipped with brackets and cables to hold on to by hand. It does not present any particular technical difficulties, and can be completed even by those just getting started with the vie ferrate, provided they have suitable equipment (a via ferrata kit, harness and helmet) and are accompanied by someone who has previous experience with this type of trail.
The route takes about an hour and a half, and at some points brings you almost within touching distance of the surface of the lake. The cherry on top? The panoramic views over the lake and the suspended bridge over its shimmering pool of water.
“This via ferrata on Lake Idro, perfect for beginners, will reward you with views that have to be seen to be believed” (Erica e Nicola)
Just 15 minutes by car from the district of Baitoni lies a place where history comes together with the stunning nature of the UNESCO-designated Ledro Alps and Judicaria Biosphere Reserve. We're talking about the Forte Ampola Nature Park: once the scene of conflicts and clashes from the Unification of Italy to World War I, now a relaxing natural oasis in the centre of Valle d’Ampola.
Thanks to a recent redevelopment project, you can discover the park through guided and unguided tours, picking your way through ruins of the past which have blended in as integral parts of the current natural setting, until you reach the walkway over the Rio Citta, which offers a unique view of the Cascata d’Ampola falls on the Palvico river.
Our advice? Visit the park by evening, when the lengthening shadows create a sense of being immersed in a mysterious, dreamlike atmosphere.
“A history-rich journey into the past explores the leading role of the Forte Ampola Nature Park in the Third Italian War of Independence” (Erica e Nicola)
